The Old National Road in Indiana
Before I began writing The Patriarch, I studied the routes John Casper’s parents took to come to America. John’s father, Karl Jacob Kasper and mother, Elizabeth Karch, traveled separately and in different years with their own families. Both set out on their journey from the ancient village of Bilfingen, located between Pforzheim and Karlsruhe, in what is today the German state of Baden-Württemberg. Elizabeth’s family left in 1838. Karl’s family left ten years later, in 1848 when the ‘Forty-Eighters’ failed in their efforts to unite a more democratic Germany.
Karl and Elizabeth’s Atlantic voyages are detailed in the second chapter of The Patriarch. Elizabeth’s family sailed on The Burgundy from Le Havre, France to New York while Karl’s family journeyed from Hamburg to New York on The Hermione. Once they arrived in New York, Elizabeth’s family made their way by land to Pittsburgh where they took a river boat down the Ohio River to Cincinnati.
As they departed New York City, Karl Kasper and his siblings drove a wagon and horses first to the Baltimore, then they headed west on what was then called the Cumberland or National Turnpike (‘Pike’). Today, many refer to this highway as ‘The Old National Road’.
“Father said he and his brother drove a schooner on The Old Pike from Maryland to Richmond, Indiana.”
The Old National Road has a rich and storied past. It was the first major improved federal highway in the United States. Built between 1811 and 1837, it stretched about 620 miles and connected the Potamic River in the east with the Ohio river, and the states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois in the west.
Old National Road mile marker, near Wheeling, West Virginia
One of the most interesting aspects of Old National Road is that beginning in 1825, the Macadam construction method was used. This was a road-building technique invented by Scottish engineer John Loudon McAdam. His method used single-sized crushed stone layers of small angular stones. They were compacted into a smooth roadway, then a layer of stone dust or other binder was applied. The result was a drastically improved surface that increased the smoothness, level surface, and speed of many of the wagons of the era. It also reduced the number of wagons that broke down along the way. Breakdowns and accidents were common on the treacherous dirt roads of the day.
Construction of the Old National Road slowed in 1838 because of the Financial Panic of 1837. The road eventually reached Vandalia which was then the capitol of the state of Illinois. Today, much of the Old National Road overlaps with US Route 40.
Bridge on the Old National Road, Blaine, Ohio
Road construction reached Indiana in 1829. Between 1829 and 1834 the road crossed 144 miles across the state. In 1834, the road traveled through four Indiana cities: Richmond, Centerville, Indianapolis and Terre Haute. Later, towns sprung up or developed substantially because of proximity to the road. These included Richmond, Cambridge City, Lewisville, Knightstown, Greenfield, Indianapolis, Plainfield, Putnamville, Brazil, and Terre Haute. By the way, Knightstown is famous as the location of the gymnasium showcased in the film Hoosiers.
Using US Route 40, motorists can pause to take in various historical markers and sites in Indiana along the way today. In or near Richmond, you’ll find a delightful, informative center, The Old National Road Welcome Center. One of the six original ‘Madonna of the Trail” statues is also located in Richmond, at 2209 E. Main Street.
Madonna of the Trail
One of the 12 identical statues across America, this one from Lamar, Colorado. Photo: Carol Highsmith
Toward the west side of Richmond you’ll find the Earlham College Observatory.
Earlham College Observatory on US 40/Old National Road
A 15 mile drive west of Richmond leads you to Cambridge City where you’ll see the Huddleston family farm in Cambridge City. Early travelers stopped here for shelter, provisions, food, and rest for their horses. Some recent Trip Advisor reviews of this place called it an ‘American Historical Treasure’ and a ‘Fascinating Glimpse into History’.
Huddleston Farmhouse, west of Cambridge City, IN
About 9 miles west of Cambridge City, you’ll drive past 101 East Main Street in Lewisville. This is the location of the William L. Houston Store, built around 1835. The brick exterior of this federal style construction was typical for the architecture of the day.
Wm. L. Houston Store. With thanks to the Henry County Genealogical Society
Twenty-two miles west of Lewisville, you’ll pass through Greenfield. Among this picturesque town’s beautiful homes and downtown, you may spot a wonderful old gothic-style church. I believe that church was originally called the Greenfield Christian Church.
Greenfield Christian Church, Greenfield, Indiana.
As one drives closer to Indianapolis, it might be tempting to take I-465 around the city. Instead, I encourage you to stay on US 40 as it becomes Washington Street in Indianapolis. This closely duplicates the Old National Road routing. There are quite a few remarkable buildings along Washington Street including the Indiana Theater, now the home of the Indiana Repertory Theater at 134 West Washington.
The Indiana Theater, W. Washington, Indianapolis.
Further out on West Washington Street, at 3000 W. Washington, is the location of the old Indiana Central State Hospital for the Insane (closed in 1994). The fascinating Indiana Medical Hospital Museum stands there now and well-worth the visit.
Indiana Central State Hospital for the Insane, Marion County, IN. Now home of the Indiana Medical Hospital Museum.
Driving west from Marion County, it’s a scenic two-hour drive to Brazil. One of the coolest photos I’ve seen associated with the Old National Road and US 40 was an old motor court lodging in Brazil.
Motor cabins, Brazil, Indiana, 1930s.
Another 17 miles west you’ll enter Terre Haute, a real gem along the highway. Terre Haute has a number of interesting sights and museums. One of them is the often overlooked, but important CANDLES Holocaust Museum and Education Center (1532 South Third St., Terre Haute). This center was founded by the late Eva Mozes Kor. Eva, along with her twin sister Miriam, were subjected to the cruel and inhumane experimentation of the regime at Auschwitz. Eva Kor’s book Surviving the Angel of Death and film Forgiving Dr. Mengele are both available at Amazon.com. You’ll cross into Illinois about 7 miles west of Terre Haute.
CANDLES Holocaust Museum, and Education Center, Terre Haute, IN
The Old National Road is a fascinating byway filled with the history of incoming European immigrants in the 1800s and early 1900s. If you can, try to explore some of the amazing sites and educational centers along the way!
Additional reading
Federal Highway Administration History files: https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/infrastructure/back0103.cfm
Huddleston Farmhouse: https://www.indianalandmarks.org/our-historic-sites/huddleston-farmhouse/
Route Map through Indiana:https://scenicbyways.info/byway/10423.html
Old National Road Welcome Center, Richmond, IN: https://www.visitrichmond.org/visitors/welcome/old-natl-rd-welcome-ctr
Gothic-style church in Greenfield: https://greenfieldin.org/residents/history-of-greenfield/863-church-history-of-greenfield-october-2012
General introduction and resources on the Old National Road in Indiana: https://visitindiana.com/trip-ideas/26502-travel-the-historic-national-road
CANDLES Holocaust Museum and Educational Center: https://candlesholocaustmuseum.org
Additional resources:
https://www.visitindy.com/indianapolis-indianas-historic-national-road
Bridge on the Old National Road, West Cambridge, Ohio